At this point, can we stop referring to brussels sprouts as that ingredient we hated as kids but have come to cherish as grown-ups? Sprouts deserve neither blame nor credit in this about-face; we've simply learned how to cook them better than our progenitors did. Any would-be converts have already been converted, so anyone who still doesn't like sprouts can be left alone. Cool?
Previous generations mostly boiled or steamed their brussels sprouts, but we've learned the positive effects that other cooking methods, be they hot oil, dry heat, simmering liquid—or no cooking at all—can have on the sprouts' flavor. And we've accepted that the brussels sprout is an alpha ingredient whose funky, brassica-family flavor needs other assertive flavors to help it find peace and harmony on the plate. This can make dreaming up new ways to showcase sprouts difficult, which is why you see ingredients like bacon, apples, nuts and cheese invited to the party so often.
In the recipes that follow, we'll expand your sprouts skillset by introducing some new cooking techniques and flavor buddies. Think of the sprout as a mini cabbage, and your mind goes to thinly shredded slaws and fermented kimchi; combine steam and dry heat for optimal caramelization; or plunge it into hot oil for an entirely new experience.
Brussels Sprouts Slaw with Herbs & Peanuts
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
We'll take thinly shaved brussels sprouts over shredded cabbage any day. The tiny vegetables pack more flavor and less water, so they absorb dressings more quickly in slaws and quick sautés (the key is to shave them as thinly as possible.) This aggressively flavored dressing is a nod to the fact that the magical combination of funky fish sauce and tart lime juice is a match made in heaven with brussels sprouts—or other brassicas, such as broccoli and cauliflower.
? pound (340 g) brussels sprouts
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce
2 large shallots, thinly sliced into rings
2 red chiles, such as Fresno or red jalape?o, thinly sliced into rings (with seeds if you like heat)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup (50 g) coarsely chopped parsley
1 cup (40 g) coarsely chopped cilantro
? cup (25 g) mint leaves, torn
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
? cup (70 g) chopped salted, roasted peanuts, plus more to taste
Holding each brussels sprout by the stem end, shave the sprouts crosswise as thinly as possible (use a mandoline if you have one), discarding the stems as you go.
In a large bowl, combine the lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, shallots and chiles. Season with salt and pepper and let sit for 5 minutes.
Add the shaved sprouts and oil to the bowl and toss to coat. Season with salt, pepper and more lime juice if you like. Just before serving, add the parsley, cilantro, mint, sesame seeds and peanuts and toss. Top with more peanuts, if desired, and serve.
Steam-Roasted Brussels Sprouts
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Roasted brussels sprouts are pretty much unassailable, but they want to dry out in the oven before they're tender enough to eat (which is why most recipes call for dousing them with some kind of liquid or sauce after roasting). But we learned how to solve the problem with this technique we read in Cook's Illustrated magazine, which has been the source of many other tricks we've picked up over the years. Covering and steaming the sprouts with a splash of liquid as they roast results in a juicy, tender vegetable with lots of external caramelization.
This is a fine, low-maintenance side dish on its own, but you can also add to the roasted sprouts before serving. To start: toasted nuts, crumbled or grated cheese, a squirt of hot sauce or a shower of herbs.
1 pound (455 g) brussels sprouts, halved lengthwise
1 large or 2 medium shallots, cut into ?-inch rings
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
? teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons dry white wine
Preheat the oven to 475°F (245°C) and position a rack in the top third of the oven.
In a bowl, toss the sprouts and shallot with the oil, salt and pepper. Add the wine and toss again, then dump the contents of the bowl onto a rimmed baking sheet. Arrange the sprouts, cut-side down, and scatter the shallots over the sprouts.
Cover the baking sheet tightly with aluminum foil and roast in the top third of the oven for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and continue roasting until the sprouts are tender and browned and the shallots are softened and lightly caramelized, about 10 to 12 minutes longer. Transfer the sprouts to a bowl and serve.
Brussels Sprouts Colcannon
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This recipe is based on the classic Irish colcannon, a creamy starch that started as a way to use up left-over—what else?—potatoes and cabbage. But this humble mash has a surprise in the center: a little pond of melted butter, into which one dips each bite.
Here, shredded brussels sprouts stand in (once again) for their cruciferous cousin, and the recipe offers a built-in lesson on making great mashed potatoes: Don't overcook the spuds, and let the excess steam escape before ricing them into creamy perfection. Double the recipe and add it to your Thanksgiving repertoire, as the dish fills both the sprouts and potatoes slots, and it's one of the rare sides that reheats well in the microwave.
2 pounds (910 g) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3-inch chunks
Kosher salt
5 tablespoons (70 g) unsalted butter (preferably grass-fed), at room temperature, divided
2 medium leeks, white and light-green parts thinly sliced (1 cup/90 g)
6 ounces (170 g) small brussels sprouts, trimmed and shredded (3 cups/525 g)
2 ounces (55 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
? to ? cup (60 to 75 ml) whole milk, warmed
? teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
Place the potatoes and 1 tablespoon of salt in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and cook just until tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, sprouts and a pinch of salt and stir to coat. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
Drain the potatoes and let stand until they steam dry and their edges look chalky, about 3 minutes. Pass the warm potatoes through a food mill or ricer into a large bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of butter and the cream cheese; stir until melted. Stir in enough warm milk to make a thick puree. Season with salt, nutmeg and pepper. Fold in the sprouts mixture and top with the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, which will melt into a lovely little pool. Serve warm.
Make Ahead: Spoon the warm mixture into a generously buttered baking dish and let cool, then dot the top with butter. Cover with foil and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Heat through in a 350°F (175°C) oven, about 45 minutes. This recipe can also be reheated in a microwave.
Quick Brussels Sprouts & Pear Kimchi
MAKES 4 CUPS (425 G)
As we've become more familiar with kimchi—which was inevitable, as it's seemingly everywhere these days—we've learned that the word, like "pickle," is as much a verb as it is a noun. You can kimchi all sorts of vegetables, and even a few sturdy fruits. And, just as pickles range from slow-fermented to almost-instant, kimchi is also made in a variety of speeds. This quick version can be eaten right away, but it definitely improves with each passing day. We'll re-emphasize here: You should massage the sprouts with vim and vigor to work the spice paste deep between the leaves.
Gochugaru is worth seeking out for this recipe. For the uninitiated, this coarse spice powder is made from sun-dried chiles and is essential to Korean cooking. It has a more robust, earthy flavor than those generic red pepper flakes in your spice drawer, but Aleppo pepper and chile de àrbol flakes come pretty close. Speaking of substitutions, tart, firm apples (like Granny Smith) are marvelous in this kimchi in place of the pear.
2 Asian pears, quartered and cored, divided
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and chopped (about 2 ounces/55 g)
2 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean chile flakes; available at Asian markets); can substitute crushed Aleppo pepper or chile de àrbol
1 tablespoon plus 1? teaspoons kosher salt
2 pounds (910 g) brussels sprouts, ends trimmed, quartered
4 scallions, thinly sliced on the bias
In a food processor, combine 1 pear, the garlic, ginger, gochugaru and salt. Pulse until the mixture forms a paste. Add the sprouts and the chile-pear paste to a large bowl and massage thoroughly with your hands for at least a couple of minutes. Some of the leaves will fall away from the cores of the sprouts; keep massaging and massaging until the paste is coating everything and worked between the leaves of any intact sprouts.
Thinly slice the remaining pear and add it to the sprouts along with the scallions. Toss everything well. You can eat the kimchi right away, but its flavor will improve if you pack it into jars and store in the refrigerator; it will get funkier and more flavorful the longer you wait. Discard after a few weeks.
Brussels Sprouts Chips
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This recipe was the result of a happy accident. After over-roasting some brussels sprouts, we noticed that the outermost leaves were deeply caramelized and tasted extra toasty. Separating the leaves changes the entire character of the sprout. As a whole, it's a hearty vegetable, but breaking the sprout up into its individual leaves yields a delicate, petal-like ingredient. Use these crispy chips as a garnish, mix them into salads or pack as a crunchy, healthy snack.
1 pound (455 g) brussels sprouts
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
? teaspoon fine sea salt
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C) and line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Cut off the bottom from one sprout so that the leaves can be pulled away, then peel away the leaves, trimming the bottom of the sprout as you go to peel off more layers of leaves. Repeat with the remaining sprouts.
In a large bowl, toss the leaves with the oil and salt, then spread in a single layer on the baking sheet.
Bake the chips until they're crisp and well browned. After about 8 minutes, check the chips frequently, removing any finished chips with tongs and transferring them to a bowl. Store the chips in an airtight container until ready to use; they'll begin to lose their crispness after a couple of days.
Salt-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Maple & Blue Cheese Dressing
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Brussels sprouts, particularly those bite-size baby ones that show up at the farmers' market in the fall, have a design flaw. We love the idea of serving them whole, since they're basically nature's fun-size version of cabbage. But brussels are dense, which makes it difficult to season them properly without cutting them open. The solution? Roast your whole sprouts in salt.
Salt roasting is a popular technique with fish because it creates an environment that keeps the protein moist while also imparting seasoning. The same effect applies with vegetables, particularly dense ones like root vegetables and brussels sprouts. Captured steam tenderizes the sprouts while the salt crust seasons each sprout to its core.
1? pounds (680 g) baby brussels sprouts
9 cups (2.4 kg) flaked kosher salt
12 egg whites
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 ounces (55 g) creamy blue cheese, such as Gorgonzola
? cup (75 ml) neutral vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Trim the woody ends off the sprouts and remove any discolored or blemished leaves.
In a large bowl, combine the salt and egg whites with your hands until the mixture resembles wet sand. Layer the surface of a large baking sheet with about a third of the salt mixture. Arrange the sprouts on the salt, then pack the remaining salt over the sprouts so that they are completely covered. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and cook for 20 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the syrup, vinegar and blue cheese and process until smooth and no chunks remain. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, thin stream until the mixture is emulsified.
Use the butt of your knife to crack the salt shell and carefully unearth the sprouts. Transfer them to a bowl and toss with the vinaigrette. Serve immediately.
Baked Salmon with Curry-Mustard Brussels Sprouts Hash
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
We've flagged this hash as a frequent rerun in our kitchen, pulled out whenever we want to start the week with something light. As a three-in-one side dish, it's juicy and flavorful enough to act like a sauce, especially when it catches the juices of the meat above; it's substantial enough that you don't need anything else to make this a meal; and it's a healthy vegetable. Pair it with the protein of your choice (it's also delicious with chicken and pork) to bulk it up.
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
Zest of 1 lemon plus 1 teaspoon juice
4 6-ounce (170-g) salmon fillets (with or without skin)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large shallot, halved and thinly sliced (about ? cup/60 g)
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon mild curry powder
1 pound (455 g) brussels sprouts, halved and very thinly shredded crosswise
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or foil and lightly brush with oil. In a small bowl, mix 1 tablespoon of oil with the lemon zest.
Rub the salmon fillets with the lemon zest oil and season well with salt and pepper. Arrange the salmon on the baking sheet and bake for about 12 minutes, or until just opaque in the center (use a paring knife to take a peek; you won't hurt the fish).
Meanwhile, in a deep skillet, melt the butter over moderately high heat. Add the shallot and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the ginger and cook, stirring, until softened, about 1 minute. Add the curry powder and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the brussels sprouts, mustard and ? cup (120 ml) of water and cook, stirring frequently, until the sprouts are wilted and tender, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice and toss, then season with salt and pepper and serve with the salmon. The sprouts hash can be refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently or serve at room temperature.
Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts with Ranch Dressing
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The truth: Deep-frying is a pain in the ass. First, we rarely have enough oil on hand, and we cringe at the idea of using a giant container of the stuff once and then throwing it away (yes, you can cool and strain your oil and store it in the refrigerator, but unless you're a frequent fryer, it'll go off by the time you next need it). Then there's the messy splattering and those tiny red burns that appear on your hands a few minutes after frying. Plus, it's obviously not the healthiest way to cook.
That said, there are a handful of frying recipes that are worth the fuss, and this is undoubtedly one of them. Deep-frying the sprouts yields a surprisingly light, ultra-crispy texture that you can't replicate with other cooking techniques. We like to treat them like miniature fried artichokes and serve them with a creamy dip or sauce, such as the ranch dressing (aka "the ketchup of the future") here.
Make sure you use plenty of oil for frying. If you're short, use a smaller saucepan and divide the sprouts into more batches.
2 pounds (910 g) brussels sprouts
2 quarts (2 L) vegetable, canola or peanut oil
Kosher salt
Buttermilk Ranch Dressing (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives, for garnish
Remove any dark, tough leaves from the sprouts and trim the very end of the stems. Cut the sprouts in half lengthwise. If the sprouts are wet, pat them dry with paper towels.
Line a platter with a couple layers of paper towels and set aside. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or wok until it reaches 375°F (190°C) on a deep-fry thermometer. Add half of the brussels sprouts and fry, stirring frequently with a slotted spoon or mesh strainer, until the sprouts are deep golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the sprouts to the paper towel–lined platter to drain and sprinkle with salt. Return the oil to 375°F (190°C) and repeat with the remaining sprouts.
Transfer the sprouts to a serving bowl and drizzle with the ranch dressing. Sprinkle with chives and serve with more dressing on the side.
Buttermilk Ranch Dressing
MAKES 1 CUP (240 ML)
? cup (60 ml) buttermilk, shaken
? cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
? cup (60 ml) sour cream
? large garlic clove, finely grated
? teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
? teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley
2 teaspoons finely chopped chives
1 teaspoon finely chopped dill
? teaspoon onion powder
? teaspoon salt
? teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Combine all ingredients in a Mason jar and shake well. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. The dressing can be made up to 1 day ahead; refrigerate until ready to use.
